The image is by no means meant to be vulgar, but rather a symbol of reflection, to be read, of course, also as a provocation on the modern situation in the restaurant industry. And not only that. To make the thought behind such consideration clearer, it is enough to understand the meaning of Piero Manzoni's work 'Merda d'artista' that the Italian master made in 1961. Going beyond the superficial scandalistic aspect aroused at its presentation, several interpretations can be made: in a deeply ironic sense, an undoubtedly famous, established and successful artist would find approval for any work he created, even if it was banal and even more shoddy. Moreover, the contemporary art market would be ready to accept anything, as long as it is in a limited and numbered edition, as a guarantee of authenticity and exclusivity.
Even the ready-made conceived by the Dadaist Marcel Duchamp in the early 1900s in some ways can be an interpreter of such thinking. In the ready made, in fact, an ordinary everyday artifact can take on the role of a work of art once the artist reinserts it in a context different from its normal use: what transforms the ordinary object into an artistic product is the role of the artist recognized by the public.
So?! What's the point! Well, today we live in a situation where it has become deeply entrenched that some figures in the restaurant industry can afford anything just because their credibility is unassailable. That is, whatever they do takes on a higher value than perhaps it actually has. This provocation, however, is in no way meant to be a generalization, much less is it meant to adjudicate on names and surnames, but is simply meant to share an opinion that is certainly subjective, but nonetheless shareable and affirmable. This self-permissiveness, however, goes far beyond the kitchen and also involves service, environment and professionalism in all its applications in the out-of-home world. And that is the point: the absence of professionalism that conditions every choice except that of prices. In short, we happen to experience situations in which the whole does not represent coherent thinking that highlights commitment and seriousness. Too often the focus is on the menu, on impressing through the dishes, wines or drinks, but the rest many times takes a back seat. Which thwarts any positive feeling. The ability to create a complete, multisensory experience is not for everyone; it takes expertise, preparation, and skill. Other times, however, it is the image that overwhelms, the lights blind and too much costume jewelry shines. Harmony is lacking or stage impact is overdone: too many extremes and no balance.
When you cross the threshold of a venue, you have expectations. Expectations dictated not only by personal needs, but also by the messages, direct and indirect, that the venue itself sends through different communication channels, external and internal. It happens, however, that such messages are like siren songs! First of all, one goes to the restaurant to have a gastronomic experience, sure! And the price must be in line with the quality of the raw material. After that threshold, as prices go up, there has to be proportionately added value that transforms the dining experience as such into one in which all the senses are excited and satisfied. From the choice of table linens, china and crystal to the service and preparation of the staff. From the reception to the management of space in the room to the restroom. From the choice of music and lighting to the furniture and furnishings. Everything must be in harmony and everything must be commensurate with the final price. Doing this job is like using an old-fashioned two-armed scale: there must never be a fault with what guests put on their plate. Other situations, however, see those who settle exclusively on design surround themselves to create an impactful container to mediocre content. And examples of imbalance at the table can still be many. But in a 'trendy' establishment we can expect this, since precisely it sells 'trend and novelty' first and foremost. In those recognized by the most well-known guides, this is unacceptable!!! Riding on a mention in order to make cash is not only not serious and professional, but it harms the image, value and soul of gastronomy and hospitality.
So... to conclude provocatively...
I think Piero Manzoni was right with his work...
