After being at the Ohla Boutique Bar inside the Mandarin Oriental in Barcelona and seeing Giuseppe Santamaria work, I couldn't help but interview this great Italian bartender who, before arriving in Spain, passed through London and also participated in World Class in 2012. Here's what he explained to us about his experiences, his present and his views on the future of the mixologist.
At the level of drinking culture, what kind of city was London when you arrived there 20 years ago?
When I arrived in London in the 1990s, I found myself in a city in full ferment, so much so that I would say it was the period where a second golden age of cocktails was experienced. Cocktails were popular not only in luxury hotels, but also in street bars where the figure of the bartender was less classical, but with a 'freestyle' style. New cocktail bars and private clubs were opening every day, offering elaborate drink preparations with a strong tendency to use quality ingredients, such as fresh fruits and spices, and infusion techniques and home-made ingredients chosen from the city´s best-known large markets. It was the era when some of the new cocktail inveitions became popular and became part of legend as they were offered by great masters: just to name a few, Dick Bradsell´s Bramble, Salvatore Calabrese´s Breakfast Martini and Douglas Ankrah´s Porno Star Martini.
I consider myself lucky to have lived in London during those years and to have worked in some of the most prestigious establishments of the period, such as theAtlantic bar, The 10 Room, Match bar, LAB, Thownhouse, and Dusk bar. London at that time was experiencing exactly what the rest of Europe is experiencing these years, obviously with different concepts. Not to be forgotten is that this city never ceases to amaze and there is no doubt that it is the European capital of cocktails, thanks also to the great Italian Masters and professionals.
What was the biggest lesson that experience left you and why did you finally decide to move?
Definitely that you never stop learning, every day you assimilate something new, especially about the importance of passion and perseverance in your work. I decided to move in order to gain a new experience and have the opportunity to learn about other drinking cultures, such as Barcelona, and thus to expand my professional level.
Many bartenders have a 'guru' they look up to or a master who has marked their career: is this also the case for you?
Certainly, during my career I have had the opportunity to work with and be inspired by several gurus and colleagues, but if I had to choose only one, as a good Italian, I would choose the "Maestro," Salvatore Calabrese, for his elegance, personality, charm and showmanship.
What are the pros and cons of working in a bar like the Ohla, inside a hotel that is part of an important chain like the Mandarin Oriental, and especially in a city like Barcelona?
The advantage is that the bar is in a 5-star hotel in the center of Barcelona, located on Via Laietana, one of the main streets of the city, and therefore, being a great showcase, you have more visibility. There is also a Michelin-starred luxury restaurant in our hotel, in which we can collaborate with the chef to facilitate the use of high-quality and often expensive ingredients and products. Of course, being a 5-star hotel, the clientele is international and quite demanding, familiar with the world of cocktails, made up of people who easily appreciate and validate our profession.
The disadvantage, as in so many other large hotels, is that you have to follow a set of rules and administrative procedures, such as the process of service orders and other dynamics that are not as easy to comply with as in a small bar.
We know that the drink that Spaniards prefer is the Dry Martini, but what is your workhorse? Isthere a technique you prefer to make drinks with or a distillate that you tend to mix more often?
Barcelona has always been famous for classic cocktails such as the Dry Martini, Whisky sour, Daquiri, and others, but my workhorse is the Bloomsbury Fizz, one of the most popular cocktails at Ohla Boutique Bar, made with gin and formed by 3 layers of different colors and flavors, made using the layer technique. It is one of the most internationally recognized cocktails, invented for the World Class competition. Listed as a new classic among the '30 of the best cocktails invented since 2000', in Diffords Guide and also published in Gary Regan's book 101 best new cocktails.
I like to use different techniques for different cocktail preparations, always trying to keep up with the latest trends. Working in Barcelona, of course, I have a great passion for the "throwing" technique. In each case, the technique I use varies depending on the distillate, or distillates, that I mix. My favorites are Whisky, Mezcal and Gin.
How has your job changed after the World Class experience?
In my life and in my work, World Class marked a before and an after, spreading my bartending profession even more globally.
After the competition, every day has become a challenge. At Ohla Hotel, we have clients from all over the world who choose the Boutique Bar because they are excited to try the winning cocktails, new creations and enjoy live the great experience that is the "World Class moment," where they are served by the Best World Class bartender. Being part of the world class Program in Spain and Europe as a master trainer and juror, gives me the opportunity to travel often and show my talent around the world, to meet new professionals and colleagues, and to be advantaged in learning new techniques and trends faster.
If you were not working at Ohla, Spain, in which club or country would you see yourself?
In a club of my own.
What do you think is the most important step for a young person who wants to grow in this industry?
Develop your own style without copying.
Do you agree that this is the time for the revenge of bartending in the hotellerie, the environment in which the first cocktails were created and in which this profession was born?
Quite simply, I believe that we are experiencing the moment in which this profession is beginning to get the value it deserves, just as bartenders are beginning to be recognized as great professionals and not 'party lords' who serve drinks .
Although most of the world's best bartenders are Italian, many of them are working abroad because it is easier to grow and the mixologist is given proper value. Lately, however, a consistent improvement is being felt in our country as well, thanks to new competitions, more events and internationally recognized titles. Here, what do you think Italy lacks to put itself on par with great realities like London and the U.S.?
In Italy, as in other countries, the cocktail is going through a strong development, thanks to the help of the major beverage and alcohol brands that are doing a great job. However, I think there is a lack of business initiatives from major investors who fully trust the bartender in terms of doing the work behind the counter, providing the proper equipment, and choosing to invest in real professionals, without giving all the importance only to the aesthetics of the venue.
How do you think the world of bartending will change in the coming years?
I think the world of drinking is evolving, and it is keeping the same line as the culinary world. I think these changes are leading to a world of Master chefs and Liquid chefs. The future will give the opportunity to work in a very artistic way, I am sure.
