You are a chef who is talked about a lot, not only in your area, in your city (Bergamo Alta), your name for some years now has been among those on whom people have been betting to carry the flag of haute cuisine higher and higher in the world. It is no coincidence that in 2007 you were the only Italian participant in Singapore at the "World Gourmet Summit," Asia's most important kermesse, an honor that in previous years had fallen to names such as Gualtiero Marchesi and Claudio Sadler. In addition, you are a Michelin-starred chef (1 Michelin star) and your name is among those marked with high scores in every gastronomic guide worthy of the name. What do all these accolades constitute for you: an incentive, a gratification for hard work, a challenge to yourself to surpass yourself....or what else?
At the age of 53, I still blush at the compliments. The accolades bestowed on me are nothing more than reaping what I have sown over the years but at that time one must know how to sow knowing that if one does not do so ...one will not be able to make other harvests. Exemplifying the sentence of my father , now 80 years old , when I communicated to him , to his extreme difficulty of comprehension , the attribution of the Michelin Star. He said with disarming wisdom : " Pe per tera e co soi spale.......remain with your feet on the ground and keep your head on your shoulders ". Translated : rejoice but do not make flights of fancy , stay and be concrete !!!!!! You must always look to tomorrow , never bask on yesterday that belongs to the past.
Almost maniacal attention to detail is one of the characteristics you are recognized for, as is your continuous search for the absolute perfection of "simplification." Few ingredients of the highest quality, perfect in all aspects: aromas, flavors, cooking, textures, combinations...., simplicity we know, is not only the exact opposite of complication, but it is also the best overcoming of banality. How do your recipes come about? How do you arrive at the perfect balance? By subtraction or do you start already from a few basic elements?
Simplicity is the ultimate in elegance " " Simplicity is not to be confused with triviality , in fact it is a very difficult subject to achieve , especially in the kitchen " Essential and basic in thinking of new dishes , primarily is the absolute knowledge of raw materials . This is combined with the quality of the choice of them and the personal creative imagination , which , however , never ever , the said creativity should result in excess becoming and trespassing into mere extravagance . With these assumptions , a new dish , even without ever having performed it before , does not need to be experimented with . At 80% , even if in theoretical form , it is already executed : that leaves the 20% divided into 10 to aim the rifle and the other 10 to get the aim right . All this does not mean achieving perfection because it I believe is a mistake : it would not allow us room for improvement . Certainly by my nature I tend to compose dishes made up of a few elements so that they can be recognizable in themselves alone and at the same time harmonize with each other . Associating 3 heavyweight boxers does not necessarily mean that they will fistfight , on the contrary , they can caress each other in triple velvet glove and go hand in hand !!!!!
In your menus I have noticed two elements that recur in savory or bitter combinations, I am talking about chocolate (and I know that you use only chocolate from the famous Pontedera company Amedei) and coffee that I have seen among the ingredients of some first courses . How did this research come about? Did you start from the analysis of certain famous Renaissance dishes, from the concept of "dolceforte" or from some other kind of assumption?
Fundamental is the knowledge of the properties....as well as the chemical evolution in cooking of raw materials. Everything has already been done.....conceiving dishes is nothing more than knowing how to assemble different materials with knowledge so that they can travel a parallel road that leads in the same direction , tuning in on the same wavelength . Sometimes I happen to think of new creations starting from the sensations of the wine I am going to taste . I reiterate the initial concept : knowledge , knowledge , knowledge ...the rest comes by itself . Imagination , creativity , enjoyment , smileo....!
Your place L'Osteria on Via Solata in Bergamo Alta, near the funicular station, is a very nice place, very cozy, poor art furniture, cleverly designed and enveloping lights, your friendly and reassuring presence telling about the dishes. The combination of food, art, culture, is physically palpable... Is cooking in your opinion more art or more culture? I mean: can a genius talent in your opinion make up for an approximate technical and chemical knowledge from ingredients, cooking techniques, etc., or only in the presence of a solid base of food culture can one speak of cooking as art?
Everything that stimulates the human being is art and culture. There is no culture without art.....there is no art without culture!!!!!! Appropriate question for a self-taught person like me : having discovered that I have in my DNA the joy , passion and enthusiasm for cooking , combined with curiosity , research , assiduous questioning , stubbornness to understand volumes and volumes , words and reports heard , reading between the lines of the experience of emblazoned colleagues , makes up for the lack of basic instruction in culinary matters . The daily pleasure of what you do is a school of profession and life , an opening up and understanding new worlds day by day . Knowing how to convey to those who work with you and not for you the philosophy , the morals , the emotions of daily enjoyment is considered a volume to be leafed through and consulted .
Your quest for perfection also extends to the color combinations of the plate , so I ask you as if you were a well-known painter : what importance does color have in your work ?
Color : an indispensable element . Just as you do not choose in the dark the clothes with which , in the morning , you dress......cause unsightly associations , so the chromaticity of the dish is an indication of joy , pleasure , sensory stimulation .
For last a more frivolous question: the long stay on "la prova del cuoco" besides of course offering you great popularity , mainly has been useful for you to ...?
....approach me to a fantastic world , which confirmed my natural predisposition to cameras , cameras , ease of communication .....without predetermined scripts.
Are you a frequenter of social networks ? If any professional who follows this blog would like to be able to get in touch with you can track you down preferably how ?
No frequenter : Anyone who would like to get in touch has to do one very simple thing : pick up the phone and call me. You will find me always available and if we talk about cooking you will find a river in flood . Hurray , Hurray , Hurray ....la Good and True Cuisine!
Ezio Gritti of L ' Osteria di Via Solata Restaurant " Michelin Star " Bergamo Alta
Phone +39 035 27 19 93
Interview by Monica Palla
