In order to frame the activity of the great Michelin-starred chef (1st Michelin-starred since 2008) Stefano Cerveni, now established star of the restaurant "Due Colombe" in Borgonato di Corte Franca, (one of the "sacred" places of the best haute cuisine in Franciacorta), I like to use two words: "textures" and "temperatures," because it is precisely with these concepts that those who wish to have an exciting experience in Stefano Cerveni's culinary proposals will have the greatest and most surprising impact. Contrasts and harmonies between different soft and crisp textures and contrasts and harmonies between various temperatures:cold, warm, hot. What kind of experience do you offer to customers, to those who wish to get in touch with your creative flair and your very high technique ?
Getting "into the ingredient," this is the goal I try to achieve through my cooking. My dishes, although seemingly creative, have the common denominator of simplicity. I play, through technique acquired over time with textures, contrasts of temperatures and acidity-sweetness-flavor trying to maintain the original flavors of the raw materials I use, both land and sea. A dish, in order to excite those who taste it, for me must be readable, understandable and must express the flavors and aromas of all the ingredients that compose it.
Let's take a step back. You are a child of art, you grew up among the wise magic of your grandmother and father who preceded you in the management of Due Colombe: what did you really learn from them ? Beyond technique, passion and craftsmanship, is there any life lesson you have focused on that you never fail to learn?
They passed on one fundamental thing to me: the values of life. Feet always on the ground, respect, sacrifice and humility.
GualtieroMarchesi or Heinz Beck, two important among many encounters in your life, what do you like about each of them?
The deep culture and passion for the good and the beautiful, the continuous search for improvement at every level, without compromise or hesitation. You breathe these characteristics right away when you are lucky enough to know people of their caliber.
To become a chef of your level, passion and talent are not enough. It takes a lot of technique, a lot of self-denial, a lot of practice and a great deal of determination. Have there been times when you felt that the sacrifices were too high and perhaps not worth it?
When you start a career with goals like mine, you also have to take into account the difficulties you may face at every level. I have had moments of weakness when maybe a result doesn't come, or when faced with so many problems that also occur frequently. I never thought, however, that it was not worth it. I am deeply conscious of the choices I have made, together with my family and Sara, my partner. Sometimes a simple smile from a satisfied customer erases any hesitation or doubt...
You are a chef who dares, but you always do it on tiptoe, in your dishes you breathe a deep respect for your roots, for the extraordinary territory, Franciacorta, where you were born and raised.. How important is it for you to also be an ambassador, an active witness of the culture of the territory?
It is vitally important. I have the good fortune to have been born in an area as unique as Franciacorta, to have inherited recipes of historic and traditional dishes, to have been able to develop a line of cuisine and hospitality in my own image and likeness. The stimulus of being a point of reference for my territory is a wonderful responsibility, which helps even in difficult times.
Genius and unruliness is probably not the binomial that stands out best for you, I have seen that in each of your statements you always point out how important it is to flank talent and creativity with sound business management, with real entrepreneurial ability. How do you reconcile these two souls and these two aspects of your life? Does the artist never rebel against the entrepreneur?
Sometimes yes.... But, especially in the current times, it is impossible to continue a " starred" restaurant management without giving due importance to the management of costs and resources; in fact, I would say, that success is achieved precisely when you manage to make the two souls share the best.
It is no secret for anyone to know that you are also a great music lover, that you have studied piano, and that for you the connection between food and music is a natural fact almost inescapable, we have read it in many interviews. But you, what music do you listen to? What are your musical reference points? Don't you think that basically between a great chef and a great composer there are many points of contact? A lot of study, a lot of math, and a great desire to convey emotions... or am I wrong?
Absolutely true! Music and cooking are two art forms that involve an absolute desire to share the expression of one's being with the audience, whether at a piano or in the kitchen. I listen to various kinds of music; I don't have any great preclusions. I definitely favor piano through jazz and blues. However, I also love all classical music without disdaining modern as well. I listen to different music depending on my mood.
Books, teaching at Cast Alimenti, catering company and what else? How many commitments, how many projects, how many future projections..... is there for Stefano Cerveni after so many satisfactions a dream yet to be realized?
Absolutely yes: making a family! For a little over two years I have been sharing my life with that of Sara, my fiancée; my desire now is to be able to carve out a small-large space in which we can also enjoy the joys of a private life...
If any professional, frequenter of this blog, would like to question you, how can they have the opportunity to get in touch?
Anyone who would like to get in touch with us should simply visit our website www.duecolombe.com and contact us by e-mail at stefano@duecolombe.com
Interview by Monica Palla
