Trying to intercept a chef is already a feat, if then the goal is to interview him during Identità Golose, then the motivation must be doubled. My sights fall on the talented Christian Milone who, despite his young age (class of 1979), has come a long way, running the family restaurant in Pinerolo, Trattoria Zappatori, after honing his skills in Alba, working alongside Enrico Crippa, and having had a sporting experience in cycling.
I manage to reach Christian at one of the booths of the fair's main sponsors. I try to ask him the first question, but duty calls and he has to rush immediately to the stage of a seminar: fortunately he is a true professional and does not get nervous of those who have to cope with many commitments, but on the contrary is enthusiastic about it.
After this interruption, our interview resumes and I manage to introduce the first question.
You boast an important lived experience working with a chef like Enrico Crippa, and this is not for everyone, but what did working alongside a professional like him leave you concretely?
Enrico left me the basics, the skeleton, the abc of this profession, that is, how to run a restaurant and the processes to make a creative recipe.
You anticipated me, I really wanted to get your opinion on creativity in the kitchen, on the combinations of flavors in a dish, as nowadays everyone combines everything in every way. How do you deal with the choice of pairings?
Actually, nothing is invented today. When someone makes the mistake of believing that he has invented something innovative he has already made a mistake: he will certainly find that on the other side of the world his recipe had already been made or his technique used for a long time. It is true, on the other hand, that creating a dish works like a computer: you enter data, which in this case will be flavors, ingredients, techniques, which are combined; the more data you enter the wider the range of possibilities to be achieved. The secret lies in simplicity: you have to take out components by cooking and not keep adding superfluous details. If you are good at it, have the courage to do it.
It seems that nowadays the innovative methods adopted in cooking actually pursue the purpose of going back to the origins of flavors. So, tradition or innovation?
Gastronomy is really an immense area, and the task of a chef is to investigate one's territory, to get to know it, and to make sure that the teachings of the masters of cuisine are fused with the peculiarities of one's own area, updating, interacting.
Credit is also given to Trattoria Zappatori for its excellent value for money. What I would like to ask you is how you give the right value to your dishes.
Basically, my restaurant is divided into two parts: the Trattoria, which is the family restaurant and was founded in 1890, and the Gastronavicella, where I bring in knowledge and experiment with new things that I don't offer at the Trattoria. The Trattoria is the place where the fundamental rule is respect for the customers, for all those who have been frequenting it for years, in which we make ourselves completely available to them to meet their needs, coming to meet them. In this sense, Gastronavicella is a much more contained and filtered environment, dedicated to the study of my work.
Take away a personal curiosity for me: what prompted your return to cooking after sports?
I had asked to have time to ride a bike, I had given myself a deadline, at the end of which I knew I would work at Trattoria, which is the family business, after studying at hotel school. Cycling was a parenthesis, a long one, but nevertheless a period that came to an end.
At this point, my questions take a new turn, and after investigating Christian's work, I'm interested in his opinion on very current topics regarding the culinary world.
Photographs to dishes: there has been a debate for some time now about whether to ban them from customers, being misleading and not very adherent to reality in some cases. Are you for or against it?
Totally pro. The customer is paying for the dish he asked for, so it's only fair that he should be free to photograph or film it. I certainly wouldn't stop them from doing that.
Tripadvisor: it is a site that is referred to a lot when choosing which restaurant to dine at. Are you for or against its use?
Absolutely against it. The people who write the reviews have no culinary culture and most of the time they review inappropriate comments, when they don't actually ask for explanations or comparisons from the restaurant, even if they have the chance. There is no criteria or filter in its use and consumption so I think it is an inappropriate tool to evaluate and judge.
Social networks: what use do you make of them?
They are a work tool, an effective way to keep in touch with colleagues and evolve.
Some chefs have been upset about the emergence of several talent shows born in the culinary world, as they create the false myth that anyone can improvise as a cook. What is your opinion on this?
I am a real fan of talent and if I cannot watch them live I record them. I love Masterchef and I think as a format it is effective. What I do is to look at the other side of the coin of what these programs have caused: they get people passionate about our world, they get people to talk about it, to become acculturated. Of course, maybe it is not always talked about positively and maybe not everyone is able to make the most of the lessons, but the important thing is that the level of interest and knowledge grows.
Last question. When we talk about great chefs we often tend to associate their name with the stars they have or have achieved in the past. Perhaps it would be a case of focusing more on doing one's job well, rather than on getting accolades. What do you think?
Every chef should have the perseverance to want to keep learning new things about their work, and those who do that really progress, are better people, even without the Michelin star, which abroad is practically the only thing that counts. I made a difficult choice by investing in a territory that is not easy, but I have worked steadily, winning competitions, participating in Identità Golose for years now and gaining respect even without this award.
At this point I take my leave from Christian, thanking him for the time he has dedicated to me.
Punctual, clear, precise and above all decisive: this chef has shown us how dedication, commitment and passion are essential components to perform this fantastic profession at its best.
